Green watches seem to be an ongoing trend this year but, Panerai is surely not one to follow trends. The brands military background is a strong and prominent part of its DNA. After all Panerai has been producing military watches for decades now, particularly for the Royal Italian Navy.
An original, distinctive and instinctive development in the Radiomir history
Here are a few fun facts:
Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaker’s shop on Ponte alle Grazie in Florence that served not only as a shop and workshop but also as the city’s first watchmaking school.
To meet the military needs of the Royal Italian Navy, Officine Panerai creates Radiomir, a radium-based powder that gives luminosity to the dials of sighting instruments and devices. Reference to the name “Radiomir” is documented in the supplement to the patent filed in France on 23 March 1916.
On the eve of the Second World War, Panerai creates the first prototypes of the model now known as “Radiomir” for the frogman commandos of the First Submarine Group Command of the Royal Italian Navy.
Since then the Radiomir collection has come a long way. This year Panerai has introduced four new military themed interpretations of the Radiomir in matt green which are available exclusively in their boutiques. A mandatory matt look, discreet and intentionally elusive in its design. Rigorously monochrome, because it is specifically designed to merge into the surrounding background, whatever it is, blending with its shades. It is therefore strategic.
Although all four watches are conceptually connected by a common visual code of recognition as well as by the aesthetic language of the Radiomir case, with its characteristic cushion shape and integrated lugs, solidly constructed and representative of the “evolved” Radiomir of the 1940s, each of these watches has its unique functions. Lets get right to it.
The Radiomir – 45 mm (PAM00995) is fitted with the P.4000 calibre, Panerai’s thinnest automatic movement with two hands and a small seconds hand. Then there is the Radiomir GMT – 45 mm (PAM00998), a model developed to supply additional information such as a second time zone, am/pm indication and a power reserve display on the case back. This watch is powered by the P. 4001. This, however was subsequently modified in the P. 4002 version, which shows the power reserve indicator on the dial, a feature unique to the Radiomir GMT Power Reserve – 45 mm (PAM00999). Each of the three automatic movements has a bi-directional off-centred micro-rotor in tungsten alloy and a power reserve of three days.
Now the only one to have a hand-wound mechanical movement is the black sandblasted ceramic Radiomir – 48 mm, which is fitted with a P.3000 calibre indicating hours, minutes and small seconds.
Water-resistant to a depth of about 100 metres and presented in a box of satin-finished green cherry wood, the new Radiomir watches are supplied with a spare strap as well as the original one. In beige for the steel versions or black for the ceramic version, with two loops and functional reinforcing inserts in each of the holes in the green leather lining.
In these watches the dense, nonreflective green colour becomes an element that expresses both a connection and a unique quality, as do the sapphire glass with its marked convexity, the beige shade of the luminescence and the Italian tanned natural leather strap.
We love the iconic sandwich dials on all these watches and although the 48mm might be a little large for a few wrists, the 45mm Radiomir’s with that iconic military green are relatively sleek and slender yet maintaining their historic heritage.